SUPPORT CENTER

Auto-Blip does not connect to the ECU, it only engages with the accelerator pedal position sensor (APPS). Auto-Blip introduces the rev matching signal (BLIP) through the APPS, therefore, Auto-Blip is invisible to the ECU.

Was a successful calibration completed as per the installation manual (no blinking lights at the end)? This is critical, and without it, AUTO-BLiP will not work as designed. It may be necessary to repeat the process more than once to achieve the desired result. Please review the calibration instructions, special attention to the section right below step 10.

AUTO-BLiP has a self diagnostic tool built-in. It will perform a test at the end of calibration. Any blinking light(s) at the end of calibration indicate an improper conection. Likely, one or more of the below items is causing the issue:

• You are connected to the wrong sensor. Some cars/pedals (Clutch pedal in particular) may have more than one sensor. You need to make sure you are tapping the correct one.
• You are connected to the wrong wire at the correct sensor. Do not just go by wire color, check diagrams if available. Use a voltmeter to confirm it is the correct wire. The difference between Brake/Clutch pedal pressed and pedal depressed should be at least 1 volt, but could be up to 12v. APPS signal wire voltage will fluctuate between ~.5v and ~4.5v. More details on other sections below.
• You are improperly connected to the correct wire. The connector (Posi-tap) is not properly seated. Review Posi-tab user manual located at the top of the Support Center page.

The following  are interpretations of a failled calibration / blinking light(s):

• Blinking BRAKE light - Check Brake switch connection
• Blinking CLUTCH light - Check Clutch switch connection
• Blinking BLIP light - Check connections at the accelerator pedal position sensor (APPS)
• Combination of BRAKE/BLIP lights or CLUTCH/BLIP lights - Check both respective sensors and GROUND connection
• Ground connection - An improper GROUND connection can be reflected as a combination of blinking lights as stated above. Were you connect to GROUND does matter as not all provide the same quality of grounding resulting in ECU misinterpreting signals and issuing engine codes. See 12V and Ground Connections section below.

All blinking lights must be addressed and corrected or Auto-Blip will not work as designed.

Incorrect installation of the supplied Posi-tap wire connectors is the most common installation fail. The provided connectors are considered the best in the industry, but can be finicky to install. when properly used, they make an excellent connection. We also like them because they will not damage your wiring. Instructions for the proper use of Posi-taps can be found in the downloads section above: Posi-Tap connectors user guide. Please read these instructions carefully as they may help you identify possible installation errors. End caps must screw in straight to ensure the pin inside the Posi-tap cylinder goes through the center of the wire you are tapping. The smaller the wire gauge you are tapping, the more critical this is..

When identifying the correct wires to tap, prioritize diagrams / written directions vs. pictures alone. Manufacturers often change wire colors, even during the middle of a production year, but wiill less frequently change a wire position/diagram. Additionally, wire colors will fade with time (e.g. White wires will begin to look Beige or Yellow over time).

The use of a voltage meter is recommended to identify or confirm the correct wire. See the corresponding sections for voltage values.

12V and Ground connections should be completed as indicated. Connecting to random 12V and/or Ground sources may result in a failed installation. When accessible, we recommend tapping the back of the OBD2 port for both 12v (Pin #16) and Ground (Pin #4). Use of a chassis ground should be a last recourse, as they may have excesive electrical noise and may not work.

GROUND POTENTIAL

In automotive electronics, "ground" is the reference point for measuring electrical signals. "Same ground potential" means the electrical zero-volt lines of both the Auto-Blip and the Engine Control Unit (ECU) must be at the exact same level.

Why This Matters

Auto-Blip identifies and replicates the correct voltage signal from your car's accelerator pedal sensor before releasing it to the ECU. This tells the engine to "blip" (open) the throttle during downshifts at the precise time.

• The Voltage Reference - The ECU expects highly precise voltages (typically 0.5 to 4.5 volts) to know exactly where the pedal is.
• The Danger of Different Grounds - If the Auto-Blip and the ECU are grounded in different spots (e.g., one on the engine block and one on the chassis), resistance can cause a "voltage drop". This makes their 0-volt reference points different.
• The Result - The ECU will misinterpret the Auto-Blip signal. This can trigger "limp mode," throw engine check codes, or cause erratic throttle behavior.

• How to Fix It - To avoid this issue, always connect Auto-Blip's ground wire to the same/similar ground point as the ECU.

The accelerator pedal position sensor (APPS) indicates the pedal's position at any given time when the pedal is pressed or at iddle. With an APPS that uses 2 potentiometers (most do), when the accelerator pedal is pressed, the signal voltage value of at least one potentiometer increases. The second potentiometer may be unidirectional or counterdirectional.

Unidirectional means that this second potentiometer may go up in value along with the first potentiometer (same value or +/- 50% of value). A counterdirectional potentiometer may decrease in value if it starts from the opposite end of the voltage scale (going from high to low in value). Voltage scale values typically range from 0.5v to 4.5v (+/-).

Both potentiometer values are constantly communicated beteen the accelerator pedal position sensor (APPS) and the ECU / ECM when the car is running, or the ignition is on. If there is a discrepancy of 10% or more from what the ECU determines to be correct, faults will be triggered and/or the throttle will go into 'limp' mode.

Attention: A similar fault may also result from a poor ground connection (AUTO-BLiP's Black wire). Signal values may vary with different engines and APPS. AUTO-BLiP is designed to work with 0-5 volt throttle position sensors.

AUTO-BLiP requires signals from both the brake and the clutch (in that order) to release the 'blip' signal. The desired signal values are:

→ Brake signal: 1v - 12v chaging by 1v min. Some cars may have two switches at the brake pedal. You need to tap on the wire that carries the signal to the brake light when the pedal is engaged. 

→ Clutch signal: 1v - 12v changing by 1v min. Most clutch pedals have two switches. You need to tap the safety interlock switch located at the end of the clutch pedal travel, specifically the wire that changes voltage when the clutch pedal is fully engaged. For more information, see the full instructional in the Installation/User Manual section above (Fix for cars without a clutch or brake switch).